La Tchavana: Where an Alpine Pasture Still Feels Like Home

Alpe Metsan is located in the upper Val d’Ayas, an enchanting place where the Bagnod family opened their "La Tchavana" farmhouse in 1999

The Ru Courtaud trail rises gently from Barmasc, following the water as it flows through its stone channel. In summer, when the sun warms the larches, you reach it in a good hour of slow walking. In winter, with snow muffling every sound, time stretches differently, and Alpe Metsan appears almost suddenly, smoke rising from La Tchavana's chimney.

It's here, at 1,800 meters, that the Bagnod family chose to stay. Not just in summer, as alpine tradition demands, but all year round. Since 1999, when they opened their agriturismo—a working farm that welcomes guests—they've built a way of being in the mountains that follows ancient rhythms while facing the present. The cows climb in June and descend in September, carrying with them the flavor of high pastures. The rest of the year, the alp breathes differently: quieter, more inward.

The fontina aging in the new cellar—stone and wood, built as it should be—holds summer inside it. The grass of these pastures, which grows slowly at this altitude, gives the milk a fragrance that those who know it recognize immediately. The wheels rest for weeks on spruce shelves, turned occasionally with gestures that are the same as they've always been. In the same cellar age the flavored tomes and Gran Gessato d'Ayas, a rich cheese the Bagnods began producing a few years ago with milk from sheep that graze even higher, at Vascoccia.

Sitting at La Tchavana's table, you understand what it means to eat what comes from here. The butter was churned yesterday, the ricotta is still warm, the cured meats are what the family prepares in winter. And then there's polenta concia—not just polenta with butter and fontina, but a gesture that speaks of coming down from the pastures hungry, when it took so little to feel at home.

In summer, on July and August afternoons, you can climb to the mountain huts where the cows graze, watch the milking, see how a wheel of fontina is born. It's not a demonstration—it's simply work continuing, work someone has decided to share. Those who wish can stay, ask questions, understand that behind a cheese lies a whole day, knowledge passed down, a choice.

From Mandrou, the other trail to Metsan climbs more steeply and offers, at each turn, another piece of Monte Rosa's glacier. It's the path preferred by those who already know the place, who know the arrival is worth the effort. You can also ride it by mountain bike or on horseback, if you're comfortable with switchbacks.

In the end, what remains isn't just the taste of fontina or the good tiredness in your legs. It's the sense of having encountered a place that continues to live as it always has, with the effort and beauty that entails. An alpine pasture that hasn't stopped being itself, even when it opened its doors.

La Tchavana is open year-round. For information: Azienda Agricola Bagnod, tel. +39 347 7347523

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About us

All was really good

We had a great stay, very comfortable, the best view ever from the valley and mountains, stunning. I really liked to be met at the property and shown where to park and shown our apartment, keys etc.

Anneke, ie - 01-07-2024

We had a great stay, very comfortable, the best view ever from the valley and mountains, stunning. I really liked to be met at the property and shown where to park and shown our apartment, keys etc.

Anneke, ie - Family holiday

01-07-2024

Nice and friendly hotel, great breakfast

Nice small hotel with family feeling. Good quality / value for money. Excellent breakfast, clean and tidy. Only a short walk to the gondola, plenty of restaurants in all price ranges just around the c

Ulf H - 25-03-2024

Nice small hotel with family feeling. Good quality / value for money. Excellent breakfast, clean and tidy. Only a short walk to the gondola, plenty of restaurants in all price ranges just around the corner from the hotel

Ulf H - Family holiday

25-03-2024

All the comfort you need when enjoying this charming town.

We really enjoyed our stay at the Hotel L'Aiglon. Firstly the staff were so pleasant and helpful. The room was fine, next time we'd opt for one with a balcony! Comfortable bed, great shower. Plenty of

percehere - 24-03-2024

We really enjoyed our stay at the Hotel L'Aiglon. Firstly the staff were so pleasant and helpful. The room was fine, next time we'd opt for one with a balcony! Comfortable bed, great shower. Plenty of storage and hooks for all our ski gear! Breakfast was in a lovely sunny room and there was plenty of choice for all nationalities. It's a slow 10 minute walk to the gondola, we opted for storing our gear there, although you can use the hotel's. Wellness centre was a perfect end to the days skiing.Definitely recommend and we'll be back!

percehere - Holiday with friends

24-03-2024

Easter Ski Trip

My adult kids and I had a great time, the hotel was clean, tidy and everyone was extremely helpful. The breakfast buffet was a treat each morning and the sauna/hot tub were great after a hard days sk

marka12023 - 13-04-2023

My adult kids and I had a great time, the hotel was clean, tidy and everyone was extremely helpful. The breakfast buffet was a treat each morning and the sauna/hot tub were great after a hard days skiing. Overall really good value for money and very welcoming

marka12023 - Family holiday

13-04-2023

Happy Vacation in Hotel L'Aiglon.

Stayed in Hotel L'Aiglon for 3 nights earlier this week. Great place to stay. Rooms were really comfortable and plenty of space and really clean. We received a really warm welcome on arrival and right

dubontour2016 - 20-01-2023

Stayed in Hotel L'Aiglon for 3 nights earlier this week. Great place to stay. Rooms were really comfortable and plenty of space and really clean. We received a really warm welcome on arrival and right throughout our stay. Breakfast was included in the price. Food was great - loads of variety and really healthy food to prepare us for the day ahead. Would love to return and stay here again in the future.

dubontour2016 - Family holiday

20-01-2023

Nice location, great value

Nice breakfast, clean and large room, perfect for a family of four with a pet.

Fabio Sergio, it - 10-01-2023

Nice breakfast, clean and large room, perfect for a family of four with a pet.

Fabio Sergio, it - Family holiday

10-01-2023

Excellent séjour à l'hôtel l'Aiglon!

L'accueil est sympathique et chaleureux. Les chambres sont spacieuses. L'hôtel est idéalement situé et le cadre est très agréable. Le petit déjeuner est extra avec un personnel au petit soin et très

PierreG04 - 28-06-2022

L'accueil est sympathique et chaleureux. Les chambres sont spacieuses. L'hôtel est idéalement situé et le cadre est très agréable. Le petit déjeuner est extra avec un personnel au petit soin et très sympa. Je ne peux que recommander chaleureusement l'hôtel l'Aiglon!

PierreG04 - Solo holiday

28-06-2022

Friendly familystyle hotel

We spent a few days before Easter in wonderful Champoluc, we decided to stay at L'Aiglon. The hotel has great location in the village, very friendly staff; most helpful when it comes to answer questio

908micaeld - 18-04-2022

We spent a few days before Easter in wonderful Champoluc, we decided to stay at L'Aiglon. The hotel has great location in the village, very friendly staff; most helpful when it comes to answer questions and point us to good deals and opportunities. The breakfast is wonderful, in itself worth the stay.

908micaeld - Family holiday

18-04-2022

Fabulous return visit

We have stayed here several times. First visit since the pandemic. The warm Italian welcome ever present. Such a friendly family run hotel. Spotlessly clean, very comfy, lovely views, great breakfast

Julie H - 21-03-2022

We have stayed here several times. First visit since the pandemic. The warm Italian welcome ever present. Such a friendly family run hotel. Spotlessly clean, very comfy, lovely views, great breakfast and next to the ski lift for Antagnod mini ski area so quiet on the slopes perfect. We will return again and again. Brandy measures in the bar still extremely generous! Thank you all the staff!

Julie H - Family holiday

21-03-2022

Another GREAT stay

We have been coming to this wonderful family operated hotel for more than 10 years for an annual ski vacation. Great location near main gondola and our favorite restaurants. Good and friendly service.

LarsNice - 14-03-2022

We have been coming to this wonderful family operated hotel for more than 10 years for an annual ski vacation. Great location near main gondola and our favorite restaurants. Good and friendly service. Good breakfast. Rooms are well kept and neatly cleaned daily. Overall, we find L’Aiglon great value for the reasonable rates. We are already looking forward to our next visit!

LarsNice - Couples holiday

14-03-2022